The Windsor has been a stalwart of the Perth pub and social scene for decades, and the head chef at The Windsor Restaurant is charming Frenchman, Antoine Mayer.
The Windsor in the late 80’s was the establishment at which to be seen. Today it stands as a monument to its heritage architecture. Though the grand facade remains relatively unchanged, the interior has transformed over the years. It’s a café, a boutique bar and a fine-dining restaurant. What sets The Windsor apart from the rest is that little French touch that head chef Antoine Mayer and sous-chefs Brent Nichols and Danilo Monteiro bring to the table. Vive La France!
Renowned for great quality, friendly service and beautiful atmosphere, the restaurant boasts a comprehensive menu best described as Modern Australian. After weeks of rain in Perth we were blessed with blue skies and sunshine, perfect weather for lunch in The Garden.
Sitting beneath grape vines, surrounded by tranquil Karratha stone water features, Antoine revealed he has been impressed with the variety and freshness of Perth’s local produce. He particularly enjoys cooking seafood, evident when our first dish arrived. Undoubtedly a perfectionist, Antoine also enjoys making deserts – as we were to find out!
We shared the Market Fish of the day: Snapper on a bed of sautéed baby clams, seasonal vegetables finished off with a generous drizzle of lobster bisque. The fish was pan seared (skin on) to perfection. The flesh was thick, soft and succulent. Antoine grew up in the French city of Grenoble but credits his passion and skill for cooking seafood to time spent cooking at the Spanish boarder in Catalonia and in Biarritz.
The Market Fish is a must-have for anyone who appreciates seafood. The snapper was paired with a glass of 2016 West Cape Howe Chardonnay (Mount Barker) – which was crisp, light and didn’t compete with the flavours presented on our plates.
Then came Crumbed Pork Fillet, with sautéed seasonal vegetables on a bed of white sweet potato mash and red wine jus topped with apple jam. All condiments are made fresh and in-house. The presentation was faultless and another work of art. As with the previous dish, little flower petals were added to great visual effect. It tasted as good as it looked. The fine golden crumb worked well with the pork, soaking up the delicious red wine jus. The apple jam added texture and sweetness. Antoine turned old-fashioned Roast Pork and Apple Sauce into ‘gastronomie’ (French for fine-dining).
Next we were treated to Duck Cooked Two Ways: pulled duck leg and pan seared duck breast served on a silky parsnip puree, garnished with roasted asparagus spears, fine strips of crispy bacon and a fig sauce. This dish will no doubt prove popular, as pulled-meat dishes are trending on the Perth scene. The robust and fruity 2016 Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz (Barossa Valley) paired perfectly with both the pork and the duck.
Saving the best for last: Strawberry Cheesecake – finely cut strawberries in a strawberry glaze with chopped pistachios on top of a creamy cheese filling (made light and airy with egg whites). The hero of this dish was the moist Dacquoise biscuit base (think French Macarons). This desert is too good to be shared! The Tokay Classic Liqueur, Morris of Rutherglen (Victoria) complemented the desert perfectly, and aromatic creamy coffees completed the whole dining experience with a ‘bravo’.
The Windsor Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, seven days a week and bookings are advised. It’s the perfect venue for a catch-up with friends and family, or that romantic dinner for two, and there is nothing more French than that.

By Tina McLennan
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