101 James Street, Northbridge
Ph: 0437 614 281
www.sumiya-gin.com.au
Come Hungry: Sumiya Gin on James is on Fire
As the location in the name suggests, Sumiya Gin on James is nestled in the heart of Northbridge on one of the nightlife area’s busiest thoroughfares. Equal parts feast, fun and social gathering, this bustling restaurant invites guests to fire up the grill and indulge in the deeply satisfying ritual of Japanese charcoal barbecue (yakiniku).
For the uninitiated, yakiniku translates to ‘grilled meat’. The ritual sees diners cooking bite-sized pieces of meat and seafood for themselves on a built-in tabletop grill. It is convivial communal dining at its best –smoky, hands-on and wonderfully social. At Sumiya Gin on James, the grills are fuelled by imported Japanese binch-tan charcoal, a detail owner Toshi Hirosawa takes seriously. The quality charcoal infuses the meat with a gentle smokiness without overpowering the natural flavour of the produce.
Unlike its sister venue on William Street which has been serving diners for more than a decade, the James Street location, now five years old, leans into the interactive yakiniku experience. Manager Atsuto Hirosawa explains how the family chose to differentiate the two venues rather than duplicate the same concept. The result is a destination that feels vibrant, approachable and surprisingly affordable for such premium fare in a central location.
My dining partner and I took a deep breath and dived into tackling this feast. We were served selections from the a-la-carte menu, as well as highlights from their all-you-can-eat Premium Buffet beginning with an impressively generous sashimi platter. Overflowing with salmon, tuna, eel, prawns and hokkigai (surf clam), its beautiful presentation and exceptionally fresh seafood signalled the kitchen’s commitment to quality. Equally memorable was the salmon aburi which was lightly torched to create an irresistible smoky caramelisation. This was a real standout, delivering rich flavour and melt-in-the-mouth texture with every bite.
The chicken karaage also deserves mention. It was crisp, golden and delicately seasoned, with juicy meat beneath its crunchy coating.
But make no mistake, the true star at Sumiya Gin on James is the Wagyu beef. The restaurant’s Premium Buffet, priced extremely reasonably, boasts 96 items and offers an extraordinary spread of Wagyu cuts graded between marble scores six to nine, alongside seafood and other barbecue favourites.
Cooked over charcoal, the heavily marbled beef develops an intoxicating aroma as the fat renders gently into the meat. The texture is nothing short of luxurious, buttery, rich and almost impossibly tender, dissolving in the mouth, rather than requiring any serious chewing. Every cut delivers a distinctive smoky depth of umami that lingers long after the bite is gone.
Enhancing the barbecue experience are Sumiya Gin’s excellent house-made dipping sauces – a sweet soy-based sauce and a vibrant green vegetable sauce, the latter being a fiercely guarded family secret. They provided the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the Wagyu, adding brightness and balance without overwhelming.
To wash it all down, you can choose a saké or a popular Japanese beer. The wine list does offer wine, but choices are limited so you are welcome to BYO wine.
On our day of indulgence, we opted for a Dassai 39 Saké which was a fitting pairing with its lush flavours (notes of Japanese melon, white peach, and pear) and crisp finish.
Conquering the Premium Buffet is an ambitious challenge for even the most dedicated carnivore, so luckily sittings are restricted to 90-minutes.
“You’d be surprised how many people want to eat a lot,” Atsuto laughs. “Especially Wagyu.”
The value is undeniable and midweek diners are rewarded even further, with a Tuesday-Thursday special, four premium buffets for the price of three.
What ultimately makes Sumiya Gin on James so appealing is its warmth. There is no pretension here, just a passionate family-run restaurant proudly sharing a style of Japanese dining still relatively uncommon in Western Australia.
Come hungry, bring friends and prepare to leave smelling faintly of charcoal smoke but very satisfied.
By Leanne Casellas
