Waterwall Restaurant & Bar

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Pagoda Resort & Spa
112 Melville Parade, Como
Ph: (08) 9367 0300

A Tasty Twist

If you’ve ever zipped along the Kwinana Freeway, you’ve undoubtedly driven by the Pagoda Resort & Spa. You may have even noticed the iconic Historic Ballroom and assumed it was an Asian restaurant. It’s time to step inside for the unexpected.

Waterwall Restaurant & Bar is the Pagoda’s premier restaurant and we were treated to a sneak peek of the upcoming summer menu created by chef Rovy Sabapathee. Rovy has seamlessly woven his Mauritian roots into many of the dishes for a menu inspired by the classics with an exotic twist. He shares, “With Western Australia’s incredible fresh and local produce, I have plenty of options and tastes to play around with.”
The Prawn Tempura with sautéed pak choy and a spicy laksa is a memorable dish. The sweet prawn flesh was light and dissolved on my tongue into a cloud of delicate flavours, exuding long notes of subtle spice – further accentuated with a splash of tang from the 2020 Ta Ku Sauvignon Blanc.

This dish was followed by the Thai Style Marinated Scallops. The supple and beautifully seasoned scallops lay on a bed of avocado and yoghurt puree, accompanied by fennel heart, crunchy pickled green apple and crispy bacon. This dish delivered a Mauritian twist on a Japanese classic. The gentle lemon and herb notes in the 2010 Ta Ku Sauvignon Blanc was a versatile match for this dish.

The Homemade Beef Tortellini was served with braised savoy cabbage and a herb tomato concasse. The cabbage imparted a lovely crunch and just enough vinegar to play nicely with the rich beef and al dente tortellini. The dark fruit, coffee and chocolate notes in the 2018 Leeuwin Estate Siblings Shiraz were a robust pairing.

The Roasted Pork Belly with butternut mash, Greek-style glazed baby carrot and a spicy cherry compote was comfortingly familiar. The juicy pork was enhanced by the saltiness of the crunchy crackling and the sweetness of the cherry compote and carrots. This dish matched well with the cherry flavours in the 2020 Grant Burge Benchmark Shiraz.

Next we enjoyed the Pan Fried Barramundi served with sweet potato rosti, sautéed kale and a curry butter sauce. The crispy skin was deliciously seasoned with a pop of salt and pepper, (and I suspect another of Rovy’s secret ingredients), while the curry sauce delivered an additional dimension. This dish really came together for me with the sprightly 2020 Leeuwin Estate Siblings Sauvignon Blanc inviting all those fruity flavours to dance together – much as the adjacent Historic Ballroom was once a magnet for Perth’s ballroom dancers.

As the name suggests, Waterwall is an ode to the nearby river reached by a pedestrian bridge a short stroll away. The restaurant overlooks the hotel’s pool, offering an enticing suggestion of escapism, especially with 101 hotel rooms, suites and one and two-bedroom apartments upstairs.

Waterwall is understandably a local haunt and is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They also offer High Tea on weekends, plus year-round events.

After our leisurely lunch, I felt as though I’d had a decadent mid-week mini-break. Perhaps it was the luxe décor or the tropical surroundings? Some may think it was the wine. But sometimes an incredible meal and just the thought of an indulgent resort stay is enough to recharge the soul.

By Carmen Jenner


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