3/1 Soldiers Road, Roleystone
Ph: (08) 6290 5162
A holiday at home
On the afternoon I visited Seven Sins Perth Hills I meandered along the roads of Roleystone past fruit orchards, and felt like I was on holiday, away from my bustling life.
“I grew up here, so I love it,” owner and head chef Seb Sindermann tells me as we sit and chat. At once I understood why I felt at home spending the entire afternoon there.
Country hospitality and the warmth of German heritage has created this special nook in the hills of Perth. Seb, his family and their team nurture this relaxed family atmosphere, providing a special experience, whether for locals or visitors from the city.
It is his family heritage that influences Seb’s cooking: “a lot of the food I had at home was German-inspired, and … the flavours were much more intense than you get in most places.” He tells me his mother is a phenomenal cook who has deep ties to the industry and, while no longer working in the kitchen, she is very much a guiding force in this family-run restaurant.
The restaurant’s name Seven Sins comes directly from Seb’s connection to family. “I’ve got four kids, my wife Chrissy, myself and my mum, and our surname is Sindermann.”
Whether you are a small party of two or a larger group, you will enjoy this venue. Elegant wood finishing and exposed beams create a welcoming space, and you can sit and stare at views across Roleystone either inside or outside beneath the eucalyptus trees. There is also a community table designed for larger gatherings. The international menu allows Seb to share his passion for all styles of cuisine, and there is even a kid’s menu.
Our first meal was the Pan Seared Scallops served in a mild yellow coconut curry sauce, with an avocado salsa and spiced sour cream. The thick, creamy curry sauce was sweet and comforting, and be sure to soak up the excess with a bowl of rice. The locally farmed scallops were tender and sweet, while the avocado brought an earthy balance to the dish. Overall it was a lovely combination, and the dish was well paired with the Woody Nook Velvet Rose with its luscious berry flavours.
The second dish we enjoyed – Crispy Pork Bao with slaw, onion jam, chili aioli and spring onion – was fun and colourful. The buns were sweet and fluffy, with a lovely sweet and savoury mix filling, crispy pork and juicy slaw. We matched this dish with the German Weihenstephan Pilsner which, with its smooth and grassy taste, and crisp finish, was a refreshing drink.
Next came the Fried Tandoori Popcorn Chicken with stir fried rice, cranberries, dill, chickpeas and raita. The cranberries in the rice provided a sweetness to balance the tasty chicken, while the roast cauliflower was delicate, and let the other flavours develop on your palate, and the turmeric brought an earthiness to the dish. We paired this dish with the crisply finished Alkoomi, Franklin River 2019 Riesling.
The dish of the day was stunning, and exemplifies German cuisine for me – heartfelt, rich and comforting. Beef Fillet Medallions were served on Seb’s cold potato salad with basil pesto and onion jam. The perfectly cooked beef, tanginess of the potato salad dressing, sweet fruitiness of the onion jam and basil pesto all came together to create this delicious dish. We enjoyed a glass of the Myatts 2018 Field Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier which is a medium-bodied wine, with complex layers without being overbearing.
The last dish we tried was Tempura Shark Bay Whiting with crunchy vegetables, baby potatoes, jalapeno hollandaise and spring onion salsa. This is a lighter dish, while still being satisfying. The hollandaise was creamy with just a hint of jalapeno heat. The fish had an even coating of batter, and sits atop the other ingredients, allowing that nice little crunch we all love in tempura. We paired this dish with a local brew, the Roleystone Gold ‘n Pear Brewery Co’s Apple and Pear cider, which is a semi-sweet cider, and an easy accompaniment.
Eventually we made it to desert, beginning with the Lime Panna Cotta with fresh honeycomb, pistachio crumble and green apple sorbet. This is the desert to select when you are full from your main course but still want that end of the meal pick-me-up. The fresh flavours of the lime and the crisp sorbet were delicious. The honeycomb was rich and deep, and the pistachio crumble gave that much needed crunch. Altogether this was a well-balanced and refreshing desert.
The Myattsfield Mistelle wine is a lovely fortified wine to finish your evening on. It has a delicate sweetness without being overpowering, so it’s a great match with the tart flavours of the panna cotta.
Finally we tried Seb’s Bavarian Apple Donuts, dusted in cinnamon sugar and served with butterscotch sauce and vanilla icecream. Seb discovered these in Munich and insisted the chef teach him how to make them. I am so glad he did, and I really recommend you give them a try. The donuts are rich but the apple is refreshing, and these are best enjoyed with coffee.
The genuine warmth and hospitality you experience at Seven Sins is what will make you want to come back again and, of course, the food plays a huge part in that as well. This is a place of community, of comfort and nourishment, and when you are sitting at a table, you feel like you are home amongst friends.
By Sarah Schmitt