59 Canning Beach Road, Applecross
Ph: (08) 6166 9102
www.theheartac.com.au
The Heart Beats Strong in Applecross
Side-by-side on the Applecross foreshore, Bar Olé and The Heart offer two distinct dining experiences from owners Ryan and Nikki Esqulant. While each venue offers its own personality and culinary direction, together they create a vibrant riverside precinct where guests can move seamlessly from relaxed European-inspired tapas and cocktails, to refined gastropub dining overlooking the Swan River. Both venues capture a contemporary Perth dining culture built around atmosphere, flavour and connection.
The Heart Applecross offers a distinctly different experience, its British gastropub charm blended with contemporary dining and polished riverside elegance.
Inspired by the Esqulant family’s London pub heritage, the venue combines marble finishes, gorgeous button-back leather seating and stunning Swan River views to create a space that feels sophisticated and welcoming.
Our experience began with The Heart’s Famous Scotch Egg, served on a vibrant piccalilli relish. The crispy breadcrumb coating gave way to a perfectly soft-centred egg, while a 2024 Henschke ‘Henry’s Seven’ Shiraz (Barossa, SA) added earthy warmth and depth to the dish.
The standout starter however, was undoubtedly the Gold Street Jersey Halloumi. Perfectly grilled and paired with Gingin honey and pineapple jam, the dish delivered an addictive balance of salty, sweet and smokey flavours. A 2025 Puiattino Pinot Grigio (Veneto, IT) enhanced the freshness of this dish.
Completing the starter dishes were Butter Chicken Skewers served with cucumber yoghurt and pickled onions. This dish was full of flavour and showcased the menu’s contemporary fusion direction.
For mains, the Miso Glazed Lamb Cutlets were also an highlight. Served medium with amarillo sauce and pickled eggplant, the lamb was tender, flavoursome and beautifully balanced, while the Barossa pairing once again proved an excellent match.
Head Chef Navi Kumar, formerly of Hillarys Beach Club, spoke enthusiastically about developing the new menu and watching diners experience the venue for the first time. His excitement for combining elevated gastropub dining with bold contemporary flavours is evident throughout the menu.
The final dish of the afternoon was Grilled Zucchini with sesame cream, zucchini xo sauce and champagne pickles. Tangy, savoury and surprisingly satisfying, the dish demonstrated the kitchen’s ability to turn simple ingredients into something memorable and a highlight in the vegan mains.
What The Heart does particularly well is balance sophistication with familiarity. The venue feels elegant without being overly formal and combines attentive service with a genuine ‘at home’ atmosphere. Despite being open only a short time, The Heart already carries the confidence and comfort of a well-established dining destination.
By Cam Allen
