45821 South Coast Highway, Kalgan
www.montysleap.com.au
A Fish called Monty
All it took was a big fish leaping out of the water for the birth of Monty’s Leap. Serendipitously, owners Phil Shilcock and Michelle Gray sat by the river contemplating a wine rebrand when the fish appeared. Talk about a sign from above, or below, in this case.
This connection to nature engulfs anyone arriving at this glorious property where the grass seemingly rolls into the vineyards, beckoning me to stay all day as I worked my way through their menu, crafted by head chef Adrien Voisin.
Situated on the banks of the Kalgan River and about 20 minutes out of Albany, Michelle and Phil merged their lifelong dreams since purchasing the property in 2017. “When Phil and I came across this magnificent property, we knew the opportunity to create something special was right here. Combining this with our love for great food, good wine and fantastic vistas, our vision for Monty’s Leap was created,” says Michelle.
The reinvention of the old cellar door, combined with a brand new kitchen and restaurant, came to fruition with a two year long renovation of the existing building using upcycled materials, by repurposing the timber from Emu Point Jetty and the Maylands Traffic Bridge, further embracing the link to the river and its history.
The couple have successfully created an elevated dining experience in the rural setting, complimenting their simple food philosophy where the produce is fresh, seasonal and locally sourced. Provincial farmhouse cooking is a good description. “We want our guests to feel welcome like they’re visiting their home away from home. It’s important we deliver a personalised service every single time.”
When Michelle and Phil met their future chef for the first time, they shared their passion for serving high-quality food to match the spectacular vineyard setting. Creating a product line is another shared goal that will soon come to fruition, with a range of honey harvested in the vineyard made from vine flowers and the surrounding Marri trees. Shiraz vino cotto, fruit pastes, chutneys and olive oil are some of the delicacies that will soon be available for diners to take home along with their wines.
Reigning from a family of restaurateurs in Marseille, Adrien recreated his grandfather’s famous bouillabaisse for the menu. “I was raised in a restaurant. We lived above my grandfather’s restaurant, where our extended family worked. It was a large venue that was very popular in the 80s and 90s and a big playground for me and my brother.”
The first of many dishes arrive; Torbay asparagus with sour cream and caviar, with a sauce so tasty, I recommend ordering some Monty’s house-baked bread to sop up all that flavour and matching this dish with Monty’s Leap Sparkling for an extra zing.
One of my favourite dishes of the day followed, paired with the 2022 Sauvignon Blanc for a fruity zest. The Scallops Ceviche with blood orange and buttermilk was unlike any other ceviche I’ve tried before. The super fresh scallops and blood orange created the perfect blend of acidity and flavour. The scallops readied my palate for the next dish. The preserved lemon in the Pea and Ricotta Ravioli with stracciatella was well matched with the 2021 Chardonnay, cleansing my taste buds with an evocative taste and aroma.
The following dish generated a buzz in the restaurant, as a whole barbequed squid appeared with salmoriglio (a lemon-based and olive oil sauce) accompanied by the 2021 Rose, imparting a sweet yet subtle contrast to this FOMO-inducing dish.
Clearly, I was in the hands of a chef skilled in the art of preparing seafood. “After failing to secure a scholarship when I was 24, I took a boat to Corsica and worked as a chef. I was learning fast that I could make a living from cooking and travelling, so my first trip to Australia was a revelation. New flavours, dozens of cuisines and fewer rules helped me unlearn conformist French cuisine,” shares Adrien.
The Vineyard Board is a prime example of showcasing Adrien’s ability to ease into the culture while showcasing the region’s produce. The house-cured wagyu bresaola, salami, mortadella, pickles, a trio of cheese, seasonal chutney, chardonnay jelly, seasonal fruit, nuts and lavash crackers played along with the 2021 Appleshed Red, further elevating these premium ingredients.
There are few things as pleasurable as a well-cooked steak, and all the Blackwood Valley Beef Sirloin needed was a gem lettuce with an anchovy dressing. The BBQ Green Range Lamb Cutlets in smoked yoghurt that followed was equally satisfying.
“I never imagined working in a winery, so I use the wine in various ways in the food, like with the sauces. I use Cabernet Franc to add spicey and peppery notes to the lamb jus, a sparkling cream to pour over the asparagus with caviar, and Shiraz wine jellies to pair with the cheese,” says Adrien.
The grand finale of the Chef’s Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Crème Caramel and Vineyard Honey was a knockout. Inspired by Adrien’s mother, this dessert matched with the 2021 Pinot Noir, initially left me wondering if this pairing would work. Well, it was the match of the day. I love it when wineries marry their wines with food, as they know best. The bitterness of the wine cut through the sweetness of the chocolate, creating a super creamy texture.
As that magical feeling of satisfaction washed over me, I soon noticed I was not the only euphoric one as the other happy diners milled around chatting. Michelle and Phil’s initial excitement for their vision lingers and shines through years later. “I feel there is always some kind of road trip involved when visiting a vineyard. It’s a great way for guests to form a relationship with the area. The anticipation of arriving is always key to creating a magical relationship and dining experience.”
I could not agree more and cannot wait to indulge in the scenery and menu once again.
By Carmen Jenner
