21 Haynes Street, Kalamunda
Ph: (08) 9293 3323
www.thevaultrestaurant.com.au
The Italian Job
Puglian chef Angelo Bruno imparts his gnocchi recipe with a smoothness as soft and comforting as his pillowy pasta. I could listen to him talk porchetta and seafood linguine all day. Angelo’s robust embrace of quality ingredients, as well as excellent Italian and local wines, make you want to fall in love with Italian food all over again.
Angelo’s culinary journey started young and shows an enthusiasm and bravery since working in his uncle’s trattoria aged 12. In the school holidays, he travelled on his own to Germany to cook. After working at Trattoria Valdarno in Dalkeith, Tabella in Fremantle and various places throughout Spain and England, the time came to fully realise his dream of having his own trattoria which he did earlier this year. Valdarno diehards will be thrilled.
When The Vault Restaurant opened in 2018, Angelo was head chef. Now, with his wife Vani, they own, manage and work Kalamunda’s popular local, once a bank, the vault now filled with wine. Between them they run 3,000 square metres of restaurant, function room, several smaller alfresco areas, including the Tree Top Bar, which plays live music on the weekend, and 40 staff. Then there is the food.
The Mushroom Arancini (truffle, mushroom and mozzarella risotto balls) redeems the hit and miss reputation of an Italian staple. A cloud of lusciousness. What more can I say? Barely recalling biting or chewing, its pungent truffle earthiness and creamy risotto was Puglia in my mouth, with a lightly crumbed shell crunching into the smooth. The Antipasto Misto for two featured house-marinated olives, zucchini, eggplant and roasted capsicum with an excellent combination of mortadella, Casalingo salami, cacciatore and provolone which balance the palate delicately, as does the Valdo Marca Oro Valdobbiandene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Vento from Voneto in Italy. It is a perfect share and pair, and is especially suited to the arancini.
Local beers pair perfectly with The Vault’s pizza menu which is available from midday on weekends and from 5pm Wednesday to Friday. The pizza crust is puffy and slightly charred which enhances the topping. Our Diavola pizza was a green, red and white tribute to Italy and typical of the traditional style of a thin crust and fresh, minimal toppings. It was light and effortless with a tomato base, mozzarella, Nduja paste (Calabrian spicy spreadable salami) stracciatella cheese and fresh basil.
Our leftover portion of Seafood Linguine came home with me to the delight of fellow marinara-lovers. The sea is right there, fresh fish, calamari, mussels and clams holding onto glossy linguine languishing in a traditional Napolitana sauce. The light-bodied slightly citrus 2023 Nord Est Vermentino di Sardegna DOC from Sardinia, proved a crisp companion.
Then came the Roast Porchetta, an Italian rolled herb stuffed pork roast with velvety sweet potato purée and deep green broccolini with bite. The porchetta jus is delicious and what a treat to sample an Italian red from Apulia’s historic Flaminio vineyards. The Vallone Flaminio Primitivo Salento reminded me a little of Angelo, full bodied and soft, and a perfect accompaniment to a thoroughly enjoyable Italian dining experience.
The Primi Piatti (Pastas and Risottos) are substantial though I would like to try a traditional Puglian orechiette with turnip greens and tomato sauce. Many restaurants change their menu for the local appetite and we can miss out on authentic cultural dishes. The turnip’s time in the sun is on the way. If we can transform Brussels sprouts, anything is possible.
At The Vault Restaurant, in their own words, “there will be something delectable for everyone”. That’s guaranteed.
By Phoebe Sinclair
