1235 Great Northern Highway, Upper Swan
Ph: (08) 9296 6966
www.stewartsrestaurant.com.au
Zucchini Me
It is a stunning Autumn day in the Swan Valley. The tree-lined drive into Stewart’s Restaurant is adorned with golden vines. The open fire nullifies the slight chill in the air, but even without its warmth, it does not take us long to heat up with what Stewart’s has in store for us today. Likened to the kind of bistro you would find along a Mediterranean cobble-stoned laneway, this long-standing restaurant pays homage to the Swan Valley’s rich European heritage.
The menu stays true to its classic roots grounded in whatever produce was delivered that week. It is not uncommon to find chef Gavin Foster and his tightly knit team deftly butchering carcasses or experimenting with the daily catch. Nothing goes to waste, and he is not afraid to work with ingredients many other restaurants ignore, such as cobbler, stingray or sweetlips snapper, which we enjoy today paired with a 2018 Torrent Chenin Blanc (Swan Valley, WA).
Today’s decadence includes High Tea, something Stewart’s is famed for, attested to by their well-deserved 2023 Gold Plate Award for Best High Tea. Consisting of a variety of pastries, sandwiches, scones and jam, a pot of tea, and a glass of sparkling wine. This treat is incredible value at $69. I am going to make a very bold claim, the sausage roll was so good that if I had tried Gavin’s version in my formative years, it could have changed the course of my culinary journey. Wisely keeping his trade secrets to himself, Gavin revealed pork was its main ingredient. He laughs saying that the can opener broke months ago so everything on the menu has to be handmade, conjuring up images of the team labouring over concocted sauces deep into the night.
Just when I thought the sausage roll would be hard to beat, I tasted something so extraordinary that it inspired the title of this review. The simplicity of the grilled zucchini bruschetta belied the flavour explosion of fresh mint, dill and Kervella goat’s cheese (from Gidgegannup 18 kilometres away) resting on focaccia kneaded and baked that morning. Adorned with a drizzle of olive oil and pinenuts, so light and fresh it practically hovered below my palate in a salty explosion accentuated by the crunch of the charred bread.
I barely had time to recover from this revolutionary take on something so simple when the chicken breast appeared, its moist flesh encased in a flavoursome seasoning dispelled any myths about this cut of chicken being anything but tender. Meanwhile, the Black Angus steak lived up to its beefy reputation, heightened by its marbled interior dissolving into meaty goodness. These were accompanied by a 2019 John Kosovich Malbec Petit Verdot (Swan Valley, WA), enhancing the full-bodied flavours both in the glass and on the plate.
I will return to Stewart’s if only to try the garlic prawns, which fans of this signature dish will immediately recognise from the old Witch’s Cauldron. This 1980s and 90s Subiaco favourite, interestingly where Gavin once worked, was famed for this retro classic. Apart from the High Tea served on antique crockery, you won’t find any (con)fusion cuisine on sharing plates, but instead honest food making the most of WA’s produce served on crisp white tablecloths.
Stewart’s is worth the drive for a leisurely dinner, the three-course lunch for $69, or daily specials. It is easy to see why this charming restaurant is a popular option for intimate weddings catering for groups with a bunkhouse comfortably sleeping up to 20 people. Combined with the onsite restaurant, accommodation and day spa, Stewart’s is a destination in its own right, showcasing everything we love about the Swan Valley.
By Carmen Jenner
