45 Henderson Street, Fremantle
Ph: (08) 9200 1899
www.oldcourthouse.com.au
Heritage Hospitality
What was once the Henderson Street Courthouse in Fremantle, is now simply the Old Courthouse – a casual dining bar and restaurant oozing Mediterranean ease, and a fine example of contemporary Western Australian architecture, skill, imagination and design.
Western Australia’s first courthouse and police station were built nearly 130 years ago on land used for other commercial purposes, when the Swan River colony was developing. The Henderson Street Courthouse was built in the Federation Academic Classical architectural style. It was expensive at the time however WA’s boom years at the turn of last century were not wasted on frugality.
WA’s first courthouse was officially registered as a permanent heritage building in 2003 and in 2021, it became a pub, a bit like a church becoming a night club, but the history has been preserved and we witness continual evolution.
The building was restored over three years from 2018 and the Old Courthouse opened in 2021 in the midst of COVID. Hospitality was particularly impacted by the pandemic, so the Old Courthouse had time to teethe. Three years on, it has perfected its menu to offer all and sundry a dining experience set in a historical building restored and repurposed for modern day use.
On a sunny Perth winter’s day, smooth blues grooved softly in the background of dappled midday sun, tables filled with groups and families, couples and solos, travellers, locals, and workers at ease. Hearty portions and quality brews, house wines from Pemberton’s Smithbrook Estate, barbecue and garlic in the air, and sunny spots promised a truly enjoyable afternoon. There are cosy spots too, with open fires and outdoor heating.
We started with the Porcini Mushroom Arancini which were moist, flavoursome and topped with a creamy slightly tangy truffle mayonnaise, something I would definitely order again.
The charcuterie or tasting board, otherwise known as the Chef’s Selection Board, is a good way to start your meal with friends. With house-made bread, premium La Delizia cheeses, cured meats including prosciutto, and strawberry compote, it was a feast. Topped off with your favourite beverage, it could be a good way to stretch out your afternoon with friends.
Our meals were accompanied by the perfectly chosen wines; Smithbrook Estate (Pemberton WA) Sauvignon Blanc and Smithbrook Estate (Pemberton WA) Red Blend.
The popularity of the once humble steak sandwich is the highest I can ever remember it being. They are so hot right now that we simply had to try theirs. The Old Steak Sanga did not disappoint with its tender 150g of WA striploin, bacon, Swiss cheese, caramelised onion, and crispy potato chips, which I would happily recommend, as it is a delicious dish with great taste and texture.
A new addition to the Old Courthouse since our last visit is the pizza oven, and pizza has become a welcome staple on the menu. We got to pick what one to try so we went with the Garlic Prawn & Chorizo Pizza. The fior di latte, cherry tomatoes, garlic prawns, smoked chorizo, parsley and fresh chilli was a perfect combination. The freshness of the prawns and the spicy taste of the chorizo really shone through.
You may even have a real wildlife encounter, as the tree canopy is filled with birds and one cheeky seagull even went for our garlic prawn pizza, though just when you need hot chips, there were not any left.
Our first main was the Braised Osso Buco, served with provolone cheese mash potato, broccolini, parmesan waffle and jus. This dish packed a tasty punch. The meat was well seasoned and simply fell off the bone, the flavoursome stock had a peppery taste to it, and the mash had a good amount of cheese blended in.
Our other main was the Fish of the Day which was Barramundi on a bed of potato pieces in a white wine jus. The seasoning was delicate and not intense, and well suited to a chilled white wine.
After savouring all of those dishes, we sadly could not manage dessert, though they reflect the dedicated skill and the gift for flavour balance of Sardinian chef, Margherita Murru.
Conscientiously steering away from the Sardinian style of cooking Margherita grew up with, she is an artist with a natural talent for pulling taste and texture together. Though her pizzas she confesses, are proudly Sardinian and they are certainly excellent, the menu may be ‘pub’ fare but its execution is excellent.
It is true that the renovation does not reflect the Federation Academic Classical style of The Henderson Street Courthouse, with its soaring midnight blue walls and chandeliers unfurling through the cavernous space. When dressed up for functions, the Old Courthouse redeems its legacy as a function centre, exuding charm and character, opulence and quality that is intimate, minimal and clever.The venue has a diverse range of function spaces available to cater for most event types and event sizes, and you can take a 3D virtual tour of the venue on the website, and discover the spaces perfect for your event.
The Old Courthouse is open Wednesday to Sunday for lunch and dinner, and has an exciting and varied events calendar including monthly singles’ nights, comedy shows and tribute band appearances. It also participates in Fremantle’s annual Ten Nights In Port with its own Winter Fire Festival in August, when the fire pits come out and the nights start to really heat up.
The Old Courthouse is a pretty vista to other nearby heritage buildings, and to sit amongst recent history in such a way is a rare experience, to be able to wonder at the surrounding architecture whilst dining on Western Australian locally produced cheeses, cured meats, seafood, chicken, beef and lamb.
The intricate transformation restoring Federation Academic Classical architecture, designed and built many lifetimes ago, reveals the intelligence of the building in 1850 to accommodating lovers of style, lifestyle, sunny lunches and intimate dinner settings in 2025.
By Phoebe Sinclair
